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Maria van der Linden
An unforgettable journey
(1992)

 

12. Leaving India

If we take care of today
God wilt take care of tomorrow.
Mahatma Ghandi

With our departure from India, five and a half years of life in the tropics on the Indian subcontinent ended. New, exciting horizons beyond began to unfold.

      S.S. Chyebassa was a cargo boat with facilities for its crew and 20 additional passengers, among whom three families were destined for New Zealand. The others were to disembark at various ports in Australia.

      On the upper deck of our ship were the captain's quarters and two first-class cabins with a modem bathroom shared by the two families occupying this superior accommodation. Both spacious cabins had large windows with attractive curtains, comfortable beds, a tallboy, a dressing table with a large mirror and a spacious wardrobe. Indeed, it was like a bedroom in a house. It was our good fortune to have been allocated the larger of the two first-class rooms, while the cabin opposite was allocated to Mr. Charles McCann and his wife Eleanor, who with their three children, Carl, Trevor and Marie, were also emigrating to New Zealand. Mr. McCann was the director of the Bombay Museum in India, a competent scientist of many years' experience. He had been appointed Curator of the Wellington Museum in New Zealand. The other family bound for New Zealand was Mrs. Gardner with her two small children, Christine and Michael, who were supervised by an English nanny. They were looking forward to their reunion with Mr. Gardner, who was already working in Auckland.

      S.S. Chyebassa was carrying a cargo of tea. It was only partly loaded when we left Bombay. The end of August meant rough seas as the monsoon was only beginning its slow retreat from the northern hemisphere of the tropics. A few days prior to our departure a ship had gone down in the raging gales off the coast of Bombay. We expected a rough passage, but hoped for a safe transit through these turbulent waters. As the Chyebassa sailed into the depths of the Arabian Sea, the wind increased and waves soon reached gigantic proportions. The raging wind threw our vessel about mercilessly. We found it impossible to keep our balance and sea-sickness overwhelmed us. I was unable to retain even water. Finally, totally exhausted, I was sedated by the ship's doctor and slept intermittently. We had now reached Cochin, the seaport in Kerala State In South-West India. Here our ship stopped for three days to load more tea. With a respite from sea sickness, we enjoyed making friends with other passengers and the crew. We dined together, sat in deck chairs observing the port activities and the tea loading in progress. There was ample time for deck quoits and deck tennis games, also for refreshing cold drinks and nutritious meals.

      We became more closely acquainted with the McCann family, Mrs. Gardner and an elderly Anglo-Indian woman who was to join her daughter-in-law and granddaughter in Perth. Her son was an officer on the Chyebassa. He looked forward to his leave in Perth. Another middle-aged Australian lady was returning to Adelaide after a visit to India. She was very kind and invited us to spend a day ashore with her in Adelaide.

      Time passed quickly In this relaxed and friendly atmosphere on board our ship in Cochin. When the tea loading was completed we sailed again, this time towards Ceylon, now known as Sri Lanka, which is located to the South-East of India. It took about two days to reach the port of Colombo where our boat stopped for three days to take on another cargo of tea. It was early evening when we docked. The next day Uncle Lovat, who now lived in Colombo, came aboard and took us by car to view this most attractive tropical island's capital. As we drove to his hotel we admired the tall palms lining wide streets and modern multi-storeyed buildings. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch with locally grown fresh pineapples, mangoes, oranges and bananas. That afternoon Mother attended to business formalities with uncle Lovat in connection with our passage to Australia and New Zealand. Alek and I were given some pocket money to buy souvenirs and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the shops where we purchased a few brass ornaments and three small, black elephants with ivory tusks. We returned to the hotel, proud of our souvenirs, having enjoyed ourselves immensely. That evening, with Uncle Lovat, we visited an English family in Colombo, who kindly invited us for a delicious dinner. We were very impressed by the splendour of that spacious house, the beautifully landscaped garden and the large swimming pool. We listened to both classical and modem music, feeling as if we were in Paradise. The clear night sky, illuminated by numerous stars, was a wonderful sight after the dark skies of the monsoon season in India. We farewelled Uncle Lovat that night. It was, indeed, the last time we were to meet, though we corresponded for many years thereafter, until his death in Perth in Western Australia on 28th January 1978. During the two remaining days in port we again amused ourselves playing deck quoits and tennis. Finally, after the loading of tea was completed, we sailed on for Australia.

      As we passed through equatorial seas, the water was mirror-like with only occasional slight ripples. It was sunny and hot. For those crossing the equator for the first time there was a surprise on board. King Neptune dipped us in the ship's swimming pool during the initiation ceremony. Much laughter accompanied our enjoyment as we splashed around with painted faces and later received an ice cream and cold drinks. We sailed for six days from Colombo to Fremantle in Western Australia, our first port of call on that continent. We did not venture ashore there, content to watch young Australians near our ship and the watersiders unloading the tea cargo. We arrived at Fremantle at 6.00 p.m., and sailed in the afternoon two days later. The next port of call was Adelaide in South Australia, which we reached five and a half days later. The sea was quite calm as we sailed near the Australian coast and we were relieved to be without the discomfort of sea sickness. The Chyebassa remained docked in Adelaide for five days as, in addition to the off-loading of tea, minor repairs to the ship were undertaken. Our Australian friend from the Chyebassa Invited us for a day ashore where she took us shopping. We also spent some time in the magnificent botanical gardens, where we admired Australian flora and fauna for the first time. We were impressed by the bright plumage of numerous native parrots, parakeets, cockatoos and kookaburras flying about and nesting in the trees. These tame birds demanded a share of our food as we enjoyed an afternoon tea treat of cakes and scones with jam and cream, provided by our Australian friend.

      Four days later we were on our way to Melbourne in Victoria, a voyage of three days. On our arrival there, a telegram awaited us from Uncle Lovat's cousin in Sydney, Mrs. Blunt. We were informed of the passage reserved for us from Sydney to New Zealand on the ship Wahine on the 3rd October. In order to catch this ship we had to take the night train to Sydney, so we disembarked from the Chyebassa which had off-loaded more of Its tea cargo. Miss Pearsall's friend, who resided in Melbourne, assisted Mother with the purchase of the train tickets. This kind lady also entertained us in her home and she drove us to the downtown Melbourne shopping area where we were completely overwhelmed by the sight of so many large, well-stocked stores. Their window displays fascinated us, although we had little money to spend.

      We left Melbourne on the 30th September, boarding the train for Sydney just before darkness enveloped the land. The landscape viewed from the speeding train was a monotonous arid, undulating plain with sparse vegetation. We were tired and dozed off intermittently, until we reached the New South Wales border, where everyone had to change trains after a thorough search of baggage and personal hand luggage by the State Police.

      The second train was less comfortable, with wooden seats in the overcrowded second-class carriages. The many drunk sailors aboard were very noisy and several vomited In the corridor. Their language and behaviour was very objectionable. We were unaccustomed to the Australian accent and their jargon was strange to our ears. The whole atmosphere was rather unpleasant. We huddled together for warmth and for security throughout that restless night's journey. Next morning at 8.00 a.m. we arrived at our destination. In Sydney Mr. and Mrs. Blunt met our train. They extended their cordial hospitality to us in their magnificently designed house, built on split levels. It was attractively located among flowering shrubs and Australian native trees in Mosman. We gratefully accepted their hospitality for three days. The day after our arrival we accompanied Mrs. Blunt on a visit to her cousin, who was married to an Anglican clergyman. They had five young children and occupied the parsonage near their church in Kingsford Smith. We spent an enjoyable afternoon with Uncle Lovat's cousins.

      While in Sydney we were delighted with our visit to the Tooronga Park Zoo, where we were introduced to kangaroos, koala bears, emus and the Australian lizard. We were impressed by the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the pleasure cruise by ferry to Manly. On 3rd October as scheduled, we sailed for New Zealand on the Wahine, which then regularly transported passengers and cargo between Australia and New Zealand. The sea was very stormy and the gale force winds meant a rough passage. Consequently we again spent much time being seasick in the confines of our tiny cabin. On this voyage we were again accompanied by the McCann family, who had shared our voyage on the Chyebassa. We talked optimistically of the new life awaiting us in New Zealand. Gray skies and drizzling rain shrouded Wellington as the Wahine approached the capital city early on the morning of the 7th October 1947. It took two hours to complete all the formalities with the New Zealand customs officials before we were permitted to disembark.

      Mrs. Krystyna Skwarko, our friend from SokOlka in Poland, met us with a bunch of red tulips. We were delighted to see her after eight years and appreciated her welcome and the warmth of her personality. Together, we traveled by train to the Polish Children's Camp at Pahiatua, where the Skwarko family lived. As we traversed the Rimutaka ranges and later the plains of the Wairarapa, we admired the luscious green pasture grazed by healthy sheep and cattle. We were impressed by the landscape of our new country. Mrs. Skwarko spoke about the friendliness of New Zealanders and their great generosity towards the Polish orphans, who had arrived here In 1944. All her assurances put us at ease. We had crossed the vast expanse of oceans from India to the land of our dreams, and we now had a chance to begin a new life with our friends at the Polish Camp in Pahiatua.
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(C) Maria van der Linden

electronic version by:
Roman Antoszewski
Auckland, Titirangi, New Zealand (Nov. 2000)
antora@ihug.co.nz