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Maria van der Linden
An unforgettable journey
(1992)

 

4. Life in Northern Kazakhstan

Nothing breaks down our perceptions more quickly
Than having to survive a new or foreign culture.
John Wareham

Kaztsic Is situated on the vast steppes of Northern Kazakhstan 18 kilometres from the nearest railhead. Access to this collective farm was possible only by along, dusty, clay road in the summer. During the long, severe Siberian winters this route was frequently snowed over, and in spring, when the accumulated snow-mass melted, the road completely disappeared under a raging torrent of icy-cold water. These circumstances required the tiny settlement to be largely self-reliant.

      The newly-arrived Polish deportees were free to mingle with the local population of mixed ethnic origins — the native Kazakhs of Mongolian race and the European Russians, like ourselves, deported there. There was no escape from this Isolated, inaccessible settlement. The land around this Kaztsic Kolhos was flat, except for a small tree-covered hill where the Communist Party Chief (Commlssar) resided in comparative luxury. On the northern side of this kolkhos was a small forest plantation and a small lake, the source of fresh water and fish. It was surrounded by tall reeds with furry brown heads. There was a general purpose store for local inhabitants, a post office, a police station with the NKVD headquarters (KGB), the Communist Party office and meeting centre. These buildings together with a diesel-fired power station comprised the centre of Kaztsic. Near the pine and maple, mixed-forest plantation was the hospital, a primary school, and a day-care centre nursery which catered for the infants and pre-school children whose mothers were required to work long hours in the fields surrounding Kaztsic.

      Several farm homesteads with stables attached, lined the local streets. Only a few animals were allowed per household. In summer most families had their own vegetable garden. The vast majority of the dwellings were clay huts called lepyankee. fashioned from home-made clay and bricks, mixed with straw. The roofs were either thatched or tiled. Small barns were usually attached to the stables. The home entrance, Seonki, was a type of lean-to, commonly used for wood storage and a cool store for winter provisions, such as potatoes, wooden barrels of sauerkraut and dill pickled cucumbers. Most families also kept fowls, ducks, geese and turkeys for their own eggs and meat.

      Anyone wishing to travel beyond Kaztsic needed to obtain special permission from the NKVD, but Polish deportees were deprived of this privilege. The 12 Polish families from our train were allotted a large communal barn, situated near a group of eight houses. This barn was used for winter animal fodder supplies, but was generally empty during the hot, dry summers while haymaking and drying was in progress. Stubble from wheat, oats and barley crops, after an early autumn harvest, were also stored in this barn. At the end of May 1940, the barn had been designated as a dwelling for the Polish deportees. Straw had been spread on the earth floor. There were no kitchen or toilet facilities. Our first task was to find a space to sleep on the straw and where we could put personal belongings. Larger baggage was placed in the centre of the barn. On arrival we received food ration cards for our basic requirements such as bread, flour, tea, potatoes and salt. These items were available at the Kaztsic store. Our family's bread ration was a loaf with a small extra segment, three times per week.

      Everyone's first priority was a long soak in the nearby lake, where we also washed our hair and clothes. After weeks in the goods train, this experience was truly rejuvenating. Edek, now the only man in our group, constructed a makeshift communal toilet near the barn, while the women hastily fashioned two outside fireplaces for boiling water and other basic cooking. We shared the first cups of tea. The water took a long time to boil, as the available fuel was straw and sunflower stalks we found on the spot. Later each family took turns at using these primitive cooking facilities and gathered their own fuel, mainly small pieces of wood scattered about, sunflower stalks and straw.

      We were a close-knit group. During the long train journey we had become one large family. The practice of reciting together morning and evening prayers and the singing of hymns was continued. This strong faith in the Almighty God sustained us in our new life at Kaztsic and gave us the much-needed inner strength to cope with deprivations and adversities.

      At dawn each day a Kazakh supervisor called with a horse-driven wooden cart to transport the women and Edek to work in the fields. Their task was the weeding of already planted wheat and barley crops, which stretched for many kilometres across the steppes. They laboured there seven days a week from dawn till dusk with the meagre nourishment of water, cold tea and bread. They always returned completely exhausted after bending all day in the hot sun in the constant wind so characteristic of the vast steppes. In the summer these strong winds were frequently accompanied by sandstorms and in the winter, snowstorms. The wind dehydrated our bodies and tormented us with its endless irritating whistling. The Polish children of the working mothers were left unsupervised to take care of each other as best they could. The daily parting from their mothers was especially traumatic for the younger children in the group. My five-year-old brother Alek was always upset when the cart departed. He wanted to travel with Mother into the fields. I was usually able to restrain him, but one day he got away. Crying, he ran the long distance over a dusty road, following the wooden cart's diminishing image on the horizon. The women were amazed at his determination to reach his goal, Mother most of all. He was allowed to remain with them for the rest of that day, resting under a sun umbrella on a small rug.

      One of the children's more enjoyable activities was a refreshing swim in the lake and the gathering of mushrooms and wild berries (kostyankee) in the forest plantation. We queued up daily for our food provisions in front of the Kaztsic store and gathered firewood for cooking an evening meal. I tried to have something ready when our exhausted mother arrived, but there was little variety. My standard menu was a soup called zutyerka, which consisted of salted boiling water into which I placed small pieces of dough and potato squares. Sometimes an onion and a little cabbage was added. Occasionally we caught some fish from the lake, which was a special treat.

      After a couple of months of life in the barn we were asked to look for alternative accommodation among the local population. They were expected to rent us a room or merely a corner in their dwellings. We were required to vacate the barn before the end of August, so it could be restocked with winter fodder for the communal livestock. In exchange for my father's woolen suit, a shirt and a pair of shoes, Mother secured us a small space in a corner of a single-roomed dwelling of a local Kazakh family. These people had only basic clothing and were eager to acquire our smart Polish outfit.

      The solidarity of our Polish group remained in spite of our now scattered habitations. Women continued their contact daily at work in the fields. After the harvest in September they loaded trucks with grain and stoked up large furnaces with coal to dry the grain for winter storage. We children still saw our Polish friends and made new friends among the locals.

      The Kazakhs among whom we lived were quite friendly. They spoke In their own language among themselves, but addressed us in Russian. Mother spoke Russian and we soon picked It up from local children. Mother and I slept on straw and Alek's bed was our cane trunk. He was just small enough to stretch out on It comfortably. The Kazakhs slept on their straw mats on the floor. Every evening they lit a large open fire to cook their evening meal of home-made spaghetti, dried in the sun, and pieces of goat meat, blended together into a thick soup. Sometimes they shared It with us, but usually kept to themselves as they gathered around a low table, squatting on the floor. A very large bowl was placed In the centre of the table. Small portions of this soup were distributed into individual bowls for each family member. The men were served first, then male children with women and girls last. Theirs was a male-dominated society.

      As autumn approached, Mother obtained employment as the nursery's supervisor. Her nursing qualifications and an excellent knowledge of the Russian language were a great help in securing this position. Her persistence was also rewarded when she managed to get some monetary compensation for the household items confiscated in our home in Grodno. She was the only Polish deportee in our settlement to receive the Rs 2,000 payment, after extensive inquiries through the local Communist Party Commissar, whose wife had taken a special interest in Alek and me. With this money Mother purchased a small, semi-detached clay hut In the settlement. Our home was a long narrow room with one window. It was equipped with a coal range for cooking and heating. The room was accessible through a covered-in lean-to, where we kept fowls, stored firewood, coal and winter food supplies. One corner served as our toilet facility. The roof was thatched with straw and reeds. All the Poles at Kaztsic envied our improved circumstances and some referred to Mother as, The Duchess of Kazakhstan'. We were glad to have our own privacy. Later our home became a meeting venue for Polish compatriots of the settlement. Secretly we celebrated Polish National Days, on 3rd May commemorating the granting of the Polish Democratic Constitution, and on the 11th November the commemoration of Bolsheviks' defeat near Warsaw in 1920 by Jozef Pilsudski, when advancing communism was halted in Europe.

      In the autumn of 1940 Alek developed a severe form of English measles with complications. He was admitted to the local hospital. As I had had measles In Poland. I continued to visit my brother. However, due to a diphtheria case being inadvertently placed In the same ward, several patients, and myself, contracted this illness. I was severely affected by this Infection. There was a great shortage of drugs for treatment and the amount of serum administered to me was given too late and in an insufficient quantity. My heart's inner lining became inflamed, my heartbeat was Irregular, and I became paralysed from the waist down. I was close to death and Alek was still in a critical condition. Mother gave up her job in the nursery and remained by our bedsides constantly. She bribed the doctor to administer injections to stimulate our failing hearts. Such was Mother's determination to keep us alive that hospital staff told of her having 'plucked us out of a lion's mouth'. She won the battle; we passed our crises and made a slow, but steady recovery. By this time snow had fallen and the Siberian winter was upon us.

      I was discharged from the hospital first and went to stay with a Polish family while Mother remained at the hospital with Alek. He suffered further complications, first pneumonia, then pleurisy. Both took a long time to subside. There were no antibiotics in the USSR at that time. Russians relied on traditional herbal remedies and other proven treatments such as banki in which hot, tiny glasses were placed on one's back and chest to draw out the lung inflammation. When banki were removed after about 30 minutes, huge circular bruises remained for weeks. This method of treatment was very painful, but it worked. Some weeks later Alek's recovery was complete and we were finally reunited in our clay hut. Mother exchanged more clothes for food and for fuel to keep our dwelling warm.

      The winter was severe with frequent snowstorms, during which Mother braved the elements to dig out our window and a tunnel to our hut's only door. A kerosene-fueled lantern provided light during the long hours of darkness. I commenced school in Kaztsic in September, but that brief period of formal education in Russian was interrupted by my prolonged illness. During the long winter I made up my own school daily timetable and taught myself Polish and basic arithmetic using my textbooks and exercise books from standard two in Grodno. I also kept a diary, which to my everlasting regret Mother later destroyed before we left Siberia. Mother taught me to recite poetry. She remembered several long narrative poems learned in her youth and enjoyed reciting them herself.

      In winter Mother was unemployed and deprived of her food ration cards. We thus had little food to sustain us, and finally only flour remained. Mother baked bread and made zutyerka with lumps of dough in it. Earlier she had exchanged clothes for a barrel of sauerkraut and a sack of potatoes, but these supplies were soon exhausted. She was however, very resourceful. When the weather improved she began to tell fortunes to local women In exchange for food, and as some of her predictions were fulfilled, her fame as a local card fortuneteller was soon assured. In this way she ensured our survival in Siberia.

      During one most severe, prolonged snowstorm we were entombed in our clay hut for three days before our neighbours noticed our predicament. They dug a tunnel to free our door entrance, just as we had begun to fear for our lives, sitting in pitch darkness In one bed, huddled together for warmth. We ran out of kerosene. Again, our faith and constant prayers sustained us through this most difficult period.

      The neighbours of our semidetached dwelling were two men, both of whom were very kind to us. The elder man was a Russian. a former sailor in the Tsarist navy. For this he had been deported to Siberia. His wife and daughter remained free in Russia. Once a year they traveled a very long distance by train to visit him at Kaztsic. The younger man was an Iranian engineer, deported from Armenia for his strong religious convictions. We encountered many older Russians, who were devout Christians of the Russian Orthodox persuasion. However, after the Communist Revolution in Russia these churches had been either demolished or converted into museums.

      Believers needed to be very secretive about their faith to avoid persecution. The NKVD was very vigilant in all USSR communities and children were taught to spy on their parents. Religion was never openly discussed by local folk. Some houses still had icons hanging in their wardrobes or behind movable shelves. In a couple of homes we were allowed to see them, once we had their trust.

      Having survived our illnesses and the severe Siberian winter, we looked forward to the spring, not realising that this season was also treacherous In this formidable climate. Once the temperature increased, the great accumulation of snow and ice began to melt, causing floods. Roads disappeared beneath a fast-flowing torrent of water, the lake overflowed and the soft ceiling of our thatched roof leaked profusely causing pieces of mud to fall all around us. We slept under umbrellas, trying to remain at least partly dry, but we invariably caught colds. Food in Kaztsic was in a very short supply and no food deliveries were possible from elsewhere. Even the mail could not get through. Virtually cut off from the outside world, the settlement relied totally on its own resources. Food and fuel were severely rationed.

      I can vividly recall leaving home one morning at 6.00 a.m. to queue at the store for bread. At that time the ground was frozen. I slid along, falling several times as I walked briskly towards the store. The queue was already very long, which meant a long wait in the cold. My turn came after midday, but by then the store had run out of bread. I was only able to purchase a 1 kg of plain biscuits. Cold, tired and hungry I waded through the deep stream of icy-cold water, now soaked to the skin. By that time the snow and ice had melted and there was no dry path to follow. Thinking about my sick brother at home, I exercised great self-control, allowing myself only half a biscuit. Such experiences only served to increase my determination to survive.

      During our first year at Kaztsic we had no news of our father. Mother's letters to Starobielsk were returned without an explanation. Mother wrote to the Supreme Soviet Council. This correspondence was ignored. She visited the local Communist Commissar without any satisfaction. Although all Mother's efforts to establish father's whereabouts proved fruitless, we still hoped to be reunited with him one day and prayed for his safety. We corresponded with Aunt Aniela Sulik, father's sister, who had also been deported to Siberia from Bialystok in Poland with her eldest daughter Zosia. With them was Helenka Pietrzak, our cousin, my father's sister Rozalia's daughter, deported with her two young children, the four-year-old son Janek and a two-year-old daughter, Magda. Unfortunately Magda had died during their captivity in the USSR. They also worked hard physically on their Kolhos, trying to survive in spite of their deprivations. We were glad of this contact with relatives who shared our exile, and we also received letters from our maternal grandmother and Mother's two sisters who were still in Poland. Father's sister Rozalia and her family on their farms in eastern Poland sometimes sent us food parcels containing smoked speck and bacon, porridge mixtures, dry beans and dried bread. A real feast ensued when these parcels arrived. Their generosity boosted our spirits greatly.

      When the spring floods receded I resumed school at the Kaztsic Primary School. after missing virtually the whole school year. I was now 10 years old. Before Mother was forced to resume her work in the fields, she made contact with Mrs Maria Bielinska, one of the local Polish women. She invited her with her son Gienius to live with us. Mrs. Bielinska, Pani Maria as we called her, was a cripple. She walked with a limp and her right arm, broken in Kaztsic, had been set incorrectly. She was incapable of heavy, physical field work. Gienius was 12 years old. We got on well together. Pani Maria cared for us, while Mother worked in the fields. In return for this service, they received board and lodging in our modest home. This arrangement was mutually beneficial to both families.

      During the summer we were able to obtain fresh vegetables from our Russian friends, who tried to help us whenever possible. We valued their friendship. They were also deportees, deprived of human rights such as freedom of religious worship, freedom of speech and freedom of movement. Their families had also been split up through the enforced resettlement programmes. Our friends Mr. and Mrs. Kisidobrov gave us extra food items during the long Siberian winters in exchange for smart Polish clothes. The Communist Party official and his wife were a childless couple who took an interest in us. Another Russian woman, whose husband had been sent to a forced labour camp (lagree), because he challenged the Communist Party's ideology, was Mother's close friend.

      During the summer months we also prepared our winter stores. We gathered mushrooms, wild red berries (kostyankee) and wild spinach called 'shchuf' in the local forest plantation. Shchuf was shredded and bottled for future use in soups. It was an excellent source of vitamin C during the winters. Kostyankee were used for jam when sugar could be purchased with our ration cards. Mushrooms were dried and strung up in our lean-to and sunflowers were cultivated locally for oil and for roasted seeds. We also enjoyed eating these products fresh during the summer and we felt generally healthier when autumn came.

      Food at the Kaztsic store was very expensive so only some people were able to afford luxuries like butter, eggs and meat. A kilogram of butter cost 600 roubles, one egg 15 roubles, and a kilogram of meat 300 roubles. Bread rations were worked out according to the amount of work an individual performed. A first-class worker(Stahanovich) was allowed 600 grams of bread daily, while a second-class worker's ration was only 300 grams per day, with their allocated coupons. Children received the second-class worker's equivalent rations. Polish workers were paid for their labour in ration cards only. We always had to queue for long periods for food supplies at the store.

      On 21st June 1941 Germany launched a surprise attack on the Soviet Union. Adolf Hitler's projected territorial extension of power included a planned conquest of the USSR, before resuming a full-scale attack on Britain. Germany's armed forces soon conquered the Soviet-occupied eastern Poland, bombing communication links and the Soviet army's headquarters' installations. When this unexpected war erupted Polish people were still being deported to Siberia. The fast-advancing Germans locked up these trains, about to carry Polish people to exile in the USSR. The armed conflict between Nazi Germany and the USSR finally stopped further Soviet deportations of Poles to remote areas of the Soviet Union. Adolf Hitler's 'Operation Barbarossa' was launched against the Soviet Union along a 3.000 kilometre front, from the Black Sea to the Adriatic, and involved 3,000,000 German troops.

      Our remote Kaztsic settlement in Northern Kazakhstan was shocked by the radio news of these events. The news presentations always followed a similar pattern. Radio announcements began with a build up about Soviet bravery and large German casualties first, before an admission of Russian retreat. Soviet casualties were concealed, while their forces were in full flight on all fronts. As war spread to the Soviet republics of Ukraine, Byelorussia and Russia, the situation became very serious from the Soviet point of view. Local men and our Commissar were soon mobilised into the Soviet army, which trained in Siberia. Food prices doubled. Coal, kerosene and food shortages increased with the diversion of fuel and food to meet the Soviet army's needs. Propaganda films glorifying USSR war heroes were screened. Our attendance was compulsory.

      In July 1941 the USSR allied with Britain and the exiled governments of France and Poland, which still continued their activities in Britain. After the Pearl Harbour massacre of USA personnel and the large scale destruction of ships, planes and equipment, by Japanese bombers on 7th December 1941, America also entered the war, ending Its previous isolation policy. The USA and the USSR then became allies in their joint attempt to defeat Nazi Germany and Japan.

      The Japanese quickly moved into South-East Asia; the Dutch East Indies (Indonesia), the US-dominated Philippines. French Indo-China and the British colonies of Singapore, Malaya and Burma fell under their domination. These events let to British moves to protect their colonies of India and Ceylon. now known as Sri Lanka. Great Britain also endeavoured to reconquer the lost British colonies.

      Meanwhile, Hitler's and Mussolini's forces moved into North Africa, and the Middle East was threatened. With a large part of the planet now affected directly or indirectly through contributions of armed personnel, the conflict escalated into World War II. New Zealand. Australia. Canada and South Africa sent their armies to fight alongside the British and their allies.

      The Soviet Union, with the German invasion now deep into its territories. re-established diplomatic relations with the Polish Government-in-Exile in London. The first diplomatic agreement was signed on 30th July 1941 in London by General Wladyslaw (William) Sikorski, on behalf of the Polish Government. The Soviet Ambassador to Britain. Maisky, then announced that the Soviet-Nazi Germany treaty of August 1939 relating to the territorial division of Poland along the Ribbentrop-Molotov line, had lost Its validity. This agreement also included a special statement concerning Polish prisoners-of-war and Polish civilian deportees in the USSR. The Soviet Union agreed to grant an amnesty to all Polish citizens, who had been forcibly deprived of their freedom In the USSR. This news filtered through to Kaztsic. We felt elated.

      Meanwhile, as the autumn of 1941 approached, we prepared for another Siberian winter. I began school again. Alek, at six years of age. was still a pre-schooler, as in the USSR children started school at the age of seven. Alek thus remained at home in the care of Pani Maria who, together with her son, continued to live with us. In that autumn and early winter Mother was compulsorily employed as a 'kochugar', a stoker of huge grain-drying furnaces In Kaztsic. During the Siberian winter of 1941-1942 (November-March) we faced great fuel and food shortages. Many people all over the USSR died of starvation. Mother with friends stole wood from the local forest plantation at night for fuel.

      The German forces, unprepared and ill-equipped for the severe Russian winter, reached Moscow and Leningrad. Here their advance was halted by the Siberian-trained Russian reinforcements, who were well prepared for the severe climatic conditions. The Germans were surrounded and slaughtered mercilessly. Captured Germans were either shot on the spot or deported to Siberia where most perished. Likewise, thousands of Russians of German descent in Byelorussia and the Ukraine were later liquidated.

      During these winter months we survived on our last rations of flour. Towards the end we had no bread, only the thin Zutyerka soup. Even this tasted good when we were really hungry. Mother ran out of surplus clothes to exchange for food. During that time Pani Maria's son Gienius died of a brain tumor. He was very sick during those months and suffered much pain. He endured severe headaches for some time before he succumbed to the inevitable death. We all felt this deeply. His mother was devastated at losing her only son. She also knew nothing of her husband, who was one of the Polish officers captured by the Soviets in 1939. After Gienius' death she became friendly with an Iranian man and left our home to live with him.

      Meanwhile, we continued our correspondence with Aunt Aniela and our cousins in the USSR. We learned from her directly about the formation of the Polish army in Uzbekistan. She was delighted to establish contact with her husband Colonel Nikodem Sulik, who was one of the commanding Polish officers in the newly-formed army in the USSR. She wrote about their departure to join the army. Next we heard from Uncle Sulik, who advised us to travel to Akmolinsk in Northern Kazakhstan, from where we would be able to proceed south towards the Polish Army.

      Before this was possible Mother needed to obtain a special permit to travel from the regional NKVD headquarters, some four days' journey from Kaztsic. By this time the spring thaw had begun with the consequent floods. Even mail was not able to get through. Mother decided to risk the trip against everyone's advice, desperately wanting to ensure our departure from Kaztsic. She left us with the Kisidobrovs. She returned after a week soaked to the skin, with the special NKVD permit in her hand. When she had arrived at the NKVD headquarters with her winter clothes soaked, the Communist Chief was apparently amazed that she had managed to walk such a long distance through the flooded area. Mother told us that she had prayed fervently most of the way, unable to follow the road which had vanished beneath a steady torrent of swift-flowing water. A man on horseback finally came by. heading in the same direction. She was then able to follow him and his horse as they both tried to avoid deep, dangerous hollows filled with raging water.

      On the return Journey, as the floods decreased in volume, Mother was able to get a ride on a tractor which was carrying an accumulated pile of mail to Kaztsic. Alek and I with our Russian friends the Kisidobrovs, were really delighted to see Mother safely back. We had feared for her life during her week-long absence. Now we would be able to purchase our train tickets. We waited for the floods to subside and the bus service to be resumed. Pani Maria gave me her engagement ring as a parting gift. I was very attached to her as she had been a second mother to us for over a year in Kazakhstan.

      We departed for Akmolinsk on 13th May 1942. Though sad to leave our friends behind in the remote Kaztsic, we were excited about our liberation and looked forward with anticipation to our reunion with Uncle Sulik In the safety of the Polish Army In Kermene in the state of Uzbekistan, in Southern USSR

 

(C) Maria van der Linden

electronic version by:
Roman Antoszewski
Auckland, Titirangi, New Zealand (Nov. 2000)
antora@ihug.co.nz